VISIT JEJU

Jeju’s east coast region of Seongsan is famous for its sunrises, but the moonrise is just as impressive. For one, the vast expanse of ocean is where these heavenly bodies emerge, rising majestically into the sky at dawn or dusk.

Ssangwol means “the place where you can gaze at two moons at once,” as in the actual moon reflecting off the flat surface of the ocean. It's a spectacular sight with Seongsan Sunrise Peak as a magnificent backdrop. People say you can seek out and find a sense of inner peace and calm your mind with such a sight. Certainly it’s a joyful, impressive experience. All one needs is good weather on hangawi — Aug. 15 on the lunar calendar (Oct. 4th, 2017, Sept. 24, 2018).

The buckwheat fields at Abu Oreum in Songdang Village are another great viewing location. On Sept. 23 and 24 (2017), the fields are open to the public to capture the beauty of the flowering plants in selfies and videos. Another spot with a moon viewing event is at Darangswi Oreum. From 5 p.m. on Oct. 6 (2017) visitors are invited to watch the moon as it rises over the volcanic cone, make wishes for a safe and happy end of the year, and of course take the opportunity to have a nice snack or beverage outdoors with friends and family in the brisk fall weather.

Where better than a bookstore to both rest and exercise your mind? In the slim and fat volumes on the shelves, you’ll find the questions and the answers to life. Ideas, contained in elegant phrases and expressed in vivid language, can reinvigorate a tired traveler. If you find yourself with some spare time while traveling this October, why not pay a visit to a Jeju book cafe? You won’t be disappointed. Jeju book cafes come in all different styles and configurations. Some are restored old mandarin orange storehouses or old Western-style houses. They are cosy, lined with fragrant wooden bookshelves, and full of their own stories and histories. Better still, with a personable, homey quality, it’s perfectly fine to ask the owner for a book recommendation. Who knows? You might just get an entirely new perspective on the direction of your life.

In Hangyeong-myeon, the With Books bookstore has a wide range of comic books, novels, and books on design to chose from. At the Woljeong-ri Book Tea House, you can enjoy time in a traditional stone house that has been remodeled but which maintains its original homey feel. And the A Factory Cafe in Tapdonghas cushions and a view of the ocean, while a selection of Indian philosophy is on tap at Varanasi Book Alley, among many other such establishments.

At the end of summer, the pampas grass begins to turn golden brown. It covers the entire island from October through November. As you drive through these undulating waves of gold, you feel like you’re flying with the wind. One famous spot for viewing the pampas grass on Jeju is a 10-kilometer stretch of road from Susan-ri in the Seongsan area of Seogwipo, to Gujwa-eup, Jeju City. The narrow one-lane road is known as Geumbaekjo-ro and is very much filled with a rich, aesthetic experience.

You can also take in a great view of the “golden wave” heading east along the 1115 Road (2nd Sanrok Road) from the 1100 Road on the south side of Hallasan Mountain. This is a special treasure in that you can see the mountain and the ocean very clearly, and in between are vast tracts of undeveloped, pristine natural beauty. Other spots to put on your list include Saebyeol Oreum, Gwaneumsa Temple, the 1117 Road (1st Sanrok Road), and the drive along the Pyeonghwa-ro highway.

The black basalt rock that makes up most of Jeju is a well-known symbol of the island’s volcanic origins. But if you would like to examine Jeju in detail, there are some recommended spots where you can study this geological marvel — namely, on its network of geo-trails at Sanbangsan, Yongmeori Coast, and the Ojo area of Seongsan-eup. There you can trace the geological and (in some instances) historical timeline of the island. If your exploration leaves you wanting still more information, there are programs that organize guided tours of these trails and bring the experts to you. Visitors who take part in these walks from Oct. 21 to Nov. 5 (2017) can also receive certificates. You’ll learn more about Jeju’s stone walls, or doldam, and even get a chance to make one yourself. For more information, call 064-735-7311.

You’ve had a busy year. Why not treat yourself to a special gift and make the most of your hard work? In Jeju there are select shops with brand name items at very reasonable prices. Some have unique Jeju items as well, accessories made of seashells and weathered wood and glass, eco bags, dolphin and haenyeo mobiles, candles, Jeju postcards and more.

The Mendorongjang Market at Hamdeok Beach and the One Fine Day Market near the Haenyeo Museum in Sehwa are great little artisanal flea markets with fantastic scenery and people. In Jeju City, you can get your shopping fix at stores like The Island and Carrot Shop. On the east side of the island is Dalri Scent, B Daily General Store and Pattern of Time. On the west, Design AB at Panpo, Very Jeju, and Eung Stay+Shop. 

On a clear, bright day, the sky greets kites floating carefree in the wind. The wind helps, not hinders, us in our quest to unburden our mind. Jeju Island is, of course, famous for its windy conditions, but it also has a longstanding history of kite flying. This goes all the way back to the Goryeo Dynasty and General Choi Young who flew kites as signals during the fight against a Mongol invasion force. On Jeju you can often see people flying kites in areas unobstructed by tall structures and with plenty of open space like Hannul Land or at Saebyeol Oreum. In the autumn, from Oct. 21 to Nov. 5 (2017), visitors can enjoy a free kite flying event at Saebyeol or Gwangchigi Beach. For more information, call 064-735-7311.

In the Jungmun Truth Camp, a small performance to mark the coming of autumn will be held. On the evening of Oct. 21, Oct. 28, and Saturday, Nov. 4 (2017), there will be a cultural tourism party with performances by indie bands and a barbecue with the theme of "Jeju Sammu Night". Located in the area of the Jungmun Tourist Complex and Cheonjeyeon Park, Jungmun Truth Camp has a wide range of facilities. It is a place where you can enjoy camping without needing to buy all the camping equipment yourself. You can simply stay in the campsite, join the party, or just take part in the evening’s events. Sitting around a warm fire, eating in the outdoors and enjoying time together with your family or friends, what better way to untangle your tired mind? For more information, call 064-735-7311.

If you want to enjoy all that Jeju has to offer in terms of culture and art, then look no further than the all-new Jeju Biennale.

The Biennale, which started on Sept. 2 (2017) with a “Tourism” theme, runs through Dec. 3 at various locations around the island, including Altteureu Airfield, the Jeju Museum of Art, the Jeju Museum of Contemporary Art, and the old city centers of Jeju and Seogwipo cities.

There is a huge amount to see and experience (some 70 percent of the artwork on display is being shown to the public for the first time). A free shuttle bus is available, as are audio guides of the exhibitions. For more information, please visit www.jejubiennale.com/en_info.php.

A district of Jeju located many kilometers from both Jeju Island and mainland Korea, the remoteness of Chujado Island is reflected in its original name meaning “waiting for a mild wind”. Historically this location was where ships would take refuge when the weather became too dangerous to navigate. In modern times, it’s a place where mild autumn weather is a very attractive feature of the island, and a draw to visitors looking to explore Chujado and its Olle walking trail 18-1.

To get to Chujado from Jeju Island takes about 1 hour by ferry in good weather. It’s made up of four inhabited islands and 38 uninhabited islands. Walking the full trail around the island takes about eight hours, so it’s generally recommended that visitors plan to stay the night to make the most of their time on the island. Among the other attractions Chujado has to offer (besides the Olle trail) is the lighthouse observatory, Mongdol Beach, its spectacular sunsets and sunrises, and the fishing.

Life for me starts with healthy eating. Foods made from ingredients that get their start in clean nature. From meals to desserts, they enrich my life.

At Morning Smile Ranch, you can make ice cream with milk made right there. It is a favorite with children and only costs 5,000 won. It is also possible to make cheese using locally produced curd, which is 10 times more concentrated than milk. You need to book a group outing to do this, though.

Another natural food experience program relates to rice cakes, in particular, omegi rice cake, which is a speciality of Jeju Island. At Ggamanggotti, the 90-minute experience program is 15,000 won. If you’d like to go in a group of four or more, please make a reservation.

In Myeongdoam Chamsari Village, it is possible to experience kimchi making! This program offers you the chance to see kimchi made using Jeju anchovy broth, red pepper powder and fermented in traditional jars. The cost of the program is 12,000 won, and that includes taking home about 1kg of kimchi per person. From November, you can also try soybean paste and hot pepper paste making, a really traditional Korean culinary experience!